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Expedition & Trip Reports

Mergui Archipelago

Marine Divers - BSAC Special Branch 2292

Exped Recce

Liveaboard

Mergui Archipelago, Myanmar (Burma)

Trip summary

Dives done

23 (19 Day, 4 Night - 1 SB, 22 LB)

Itinerary

Due to engine failure (damn lucky we had sails!!) the itinerary changed from the original plan for 9 days diving.
Day 1 - Fly to Phuket (Thailand) via Bangkok, overnight in Phuket, sample Patong nightlife
Day 2 - Minibus to Ranong (Thailand), transfer by longtail boat to Kawthuang (Myanmar)
Days 3-8 Cruising and Diving the Mergui Archipelago
Day 9 Return to Kawthuang, trip in town
Day 10 - Minibus to Phuket, overnight in Phuket, yet more night life!!
Day 11 - Day in Phuket
Day 12 - Fly to Hong Kong via Bangkok

Amadeus Crew

Skipper - Darren Mollinga (Canadian)
Dive Master - Christian Bodart (Belgian)
Cook - Pern (Thai)

Crew - Chuanna (Burmese)

Guests

Ginger Ayres BSAC AD (British)
Jorge Santos TDI Deco (Portuguese)
Fabiene PADI OW (Belgian)
Pia Streule PADI AOW (Swiss)
Wolfgang Leeb PADI AOW (Austrian)

Conclusion

Great dives
Plenty of large critters - Reef sharks, Nurse Sharks, Mantas, Rays, Barracuda, Trevally, Jacks, Cuttlefish
Less dives than anticipated
Better weather than in the April 2000 cruise
Clearer water / better viz than 2000
Still evidence of explosive fishing
Good fun sailing
Excellent crew
Good food
Comfortable accommodation

Pleasant company
Good fun - what its all about for a holiday!!

Trip in detail

Mergui Archipelago - Introduction

A chance to dive one of the top 5 sites in the world, on board a sailing yacht of repute, with an excellent crew. Potentially 9 days diving, upto 45 dives depending on route etc. The possibility of seeing Sharks, Whale Sharks, Manta Rays, Pelagic (deep sea) fish, exploring new sites, setting foot where no man has stood before!

The Cruise Operator

Faraway Sail & Dive Expeditions Co Ltd - Myanmar (Burma)

Faraway Sail & Dive Expeditions offers the opportunity to experience highly personalized sail and scuba diving charters on board their company owned fleet of four custom built yachts.

Their program includes Scuba diving tours in the pristine Mergui Archipelago aboard the 42 ft quick cruising catamaran Amadeus.

One great feature of scuba diving in Burma is that there are hardly any other boats so usually you have even the best sites completely to yourself. Faraway’s yachts are fully equipped for an extraordinary diving holiday either as a full charter or a join-in trip. Amadeus offers join-in trips with scheduled departures to Burma with durations from 6 to 10 days.

Whether the stuff your dreams are made of is simply some sunset sail cruise, exploring hundreds of beaches and uninhabited islands in the Andaman sea, or some serious scuba diving in Myanmar or the Andaman Islands - whatever it is you are looking for, you will probably find it with Faraway!

Diving in Myanmar (Burma)

Enjoy a trip to The Mergui Archipelago (Myanmar), a unique area both above water as well as below. There are over nine hundred islands , all but two of them uninhabited, scattered over an area of some 12000 square miles. You will never forget the breathtaking scenery, virgin rainforests and diving on reefs that have never been explored before.

The Archipelago was strictly closed to all foreigners until in 1997. Faraway’s were among the first yachts which were granted permission to undertake diving charters in Burma. Since then they have built up a wealth of knowledge about the area which is rivaled by very few others. Because of it's isolation, this place is only superficially charted, the interior of many of the islands has never been surveyed at all. Wildlife is abundant, as is the vegetation on the rain forest -clad islands. Beaches are clean and stretch for miles. Pure nature!

Faraway diving charters in Burma take you to remote areas where you will rarely see any other yacht. The only humans you are likely to encounter are the friendly Moken Sea Gypsies who roam the area in their small boats, like their ancestors have done for centuries.

Under water there is world class diving to be found. Reefs, drop- offs, sea mounts, caves and tunnels, which sometimes cut right trough an island with exits on both sides. Enough to keep every diver very happy.

Fish life is abundant. Scuba diving in the Mergui Archipelago usually means frequent encounters with sharks, manta rays, large swarms of eagle rays, and occasionally, whale sharks. The reefs are in excellent condition . All of our yachts like exploring and, if guests want to, new sites which have never been dived before are tried out.

Faraway have four yachts available for diving charters in Burma, the 55 ft ketch Colona II, the 42 ft catamaran Amadeus, the 63 ft ketch Stressbreaker, and the 46 ft catamaran Lizard of Oz.
Faraway yachts take up to 8 persons. Small groups mean we can draw up personalized itineraries exactly suited to guest's interests.

Faraway offer scheduled diving charters in Burma from 5 to 10 days. In case of private charter the duration of the trip is of course determined by their guests.

All trips start from Kawthung just across the river from Ranong, Thailand's most northerly port on the Andaman Sea.

Your cruise will start on the afternoon of your arrival.

In some cases, notably for those combining their Burma liveaboard cruise with a stay in Phuket, it can be convenient to be transferred from there by aircon mini bus.

General itineraries are indicated on the Map. In addition Faraway have a series of "special " sites which they only share with our guests.

The Amadeus

Your Skipper

Current skipper is Darren Mollinga, an easy going, well experienced Canadian from Vancouver, brought up to a seagoing life, time spent in the Canadian Army. This was his first cruise on Amadeus, so was finding his feet with advice form the Dive Master. Like Wolfgang Riessbacher the owner, Darren is dedicated to giving you an unforgettable sailing or diving holiday. Hopefully Darren will become as addicted to the Mergui Archipelago in Burma myriad of islands, reefs, pinnacles and rocky outcrops as Wolfgang and remain in the future, continuing Wolfgang’s work in continuously looking for new places to discover.

As far as Wolfgang is concerned, good food and drink plays an important part in having a good time, so you should probably not expect to lose weight on a trip with AMADEUS!

The Yacht

AMADEUS is a 12.70m / 42ft aluminum fast cruising catamaran, custom built for Wolfgang in Brisbane, Australia. The stability of a cat is surely a plus for those not blessed with sealegs, her shallow draught opens great exploring possibilities. Deck space is huge, so you have plenty of room for sunbathing or you can just lie in the netting and watch the water rush by.

The large, deep cockpit and lifelines with netting all around the boat make her very safe to take small children on. The cockpit as well as the deck are well shaded by canopies giving protection from the sun and the odd tropical shower.

Inside there are 2 queen size double cabins, as well as 2 singles to accommodate the maximum of 6 guests. In case of private-or full boat charter, up to 8 guests can be catered for. Cabins are light and airy, they have opening hatches and fans. Additionally all portholes, hatches, and doors have mosquito screens. If you wish, you can of course also sleep on deck under the stars!

The cozy saloon has ample seating and there is a hi-fi stereo system with a large music library. Wolfgang believes, that his trips are more interesting than watching TV, so there isn’t any.

The navigation station has all the necessary modern electronics, for communication there are VHF and SSB radio’s.

AMADEUS is sloop rigged, with an easy to handle mainsail and roller genoa. A large cruising chute is used for down wind light conditions, the mainsail boom is high above the cockpit and therefore safely out of the way. The yacht can easily be sailed by one skilled person, but you are welcome to lend a hand! Wolfgang will be happy to teach you the basics of sailing and navigation.

AMADEUS is fully equipped as a diving vessel so she carries tanks, compressor, weights and belts, emergency oxygen and has 24 hr/day charging facilities for strobes and torches. Five full sets of diving gear are carried in case you do not have your own. Specially designed tank racks near the cockpit make kitting up and -off a minimum of fuss. Between dives the BC’s can remain on the tanks which are quickly filled by the powerful compressor. This compressor is situated way forward and the noise is minimal.

The aft deck has a dive platform and two ladders. The RIB tender facilitates drift dives (plenty of those in Burma !) and obviously is used a lot for shore explorations. Dive tuition, along PADI guidelines, is possible but normally on full-boat charters only, please inquire.

All diving is under the guidance of a qualified divemaster. Diving is non limit, the number of dives per day depends on the guest’s preferences, but averages 2-3 plus a night dive.

Specifications

42ft (12,70m) fast aluminum cruising catamaran
Sloop rigged, mainsail, furling genoa, cruising chute.
Beam: 18 ft (5.60m), draught: (0.75 m)2.3ft
Engine: 65hp Isuzu diesel
Speed under power: 6 kts, under sail up to 13kts
Water capacity: 1000 litre plus RO-watermaker @ 160 litres per hour
Fuel: 1/2 ton

Electronics: radar, autopilot, fishfinder, GPS, wind indicator, VHF and SSB radios
4 guest cabins: 2 double queen sized, 2 single
1x toilet/ freshwater shower, 1x deck shower
CD and tape player and extensive library

Deck Plan

1. Queen size cabin
2. Double/single cabin

3. Single cabin
4. Crew cabin . Saloon
6. Galley

7. Shower/toilet
8. Cockpit . Dive platform
10. Navigation Area
11. Engine
12. Compressor

For Diving

210 ltr/min Coltri compressor
8x 12 litre (80 qft) tanks, INT valve fittings
24hr/day charging facility for torches, strobes etc

4 full sets of rental equipment
Belts and weights
Possibility for tuition during private charter

Food and Drink

Cuisine is a mouth watering mixture of local and European, also you can expect fresh fish! Special dietary requirements (for example vegetarian) or preferences can be catered for, but please indicate these at the time of booking. You will be served 3 warm meals per day. Soft drinks, juices, beer and imported wines are available on board. Coffee, tea, snacks and cold drinking water are there for you 24 hr./day and are included in the charter price.

The Trips

Amadeus makes 6, 8 and 10 day trips throughout the Mergui Archipelago. They go as far as Tower Rock in the far North and the Burma Banks in the South.

The above was adapted from information provided by
FARAWAY SAIL & DIVING EXPEDITIONS CO LTD
With thanks for providing this and photos in this section
www.faraway.net

Day by day

Day 1
Depart HK on Thai Airways to Bangkok
Transit at Bangkok on Thai Airways to Phuket
Arrive Phuket
Taxi to Patong Beach, Sandy Beach Mansions
Deliver goods for Fantasea divers to SEAL
Food

Bars

Day 2 - Cruise Day 1
Up 0645
Wait for pickup 0700
Pick up 0800
Minibus with other passengers to Ranong, Thailand
Lunch on the way
Thai Immigration
Longtail to Kawthung, Myanmar - lovely day

Arrive Amadeus 1315
Bunk allocation, Drop kit, Form filling
Myanmar Immigration
Depart Kawthung 1400
Dinner - first taste of what to come!
Arrive
Bed 2300

Day 3 - Cruise Day 2
Up 0600 for sunrise

Beautiful day
Departed
Dive 1 - Rocky Island - dead fish from Dynamite fishing
Colona Rock
Dive 2 - Day - 0853 - Colona Rock - Sharks and Barracuda
Dive 3 - Day - 1212 - Colona Rock - Sharks
Dive 4 - Night - 1900 - Resort Beach
Dinner
Bed 2359

Day 4 - Cruise Day 3
Up 0600 for sunrise
Depart Resort Beach 0615
Dive 5 - Day - 0730 - Colona Rock - Sharks
Breakfast
Dive 6 - Day - 0958 - Colona Rock - Sharks, flooded camera
Wash & dry out camera
Dive 7 - Day - 1335 - Lone Island
Bed 2300
Under sail

Day 5 - Cruise Day 4
Arrive Black Rock 0730
Dive 8 - Day - Black Rock
Breakfast
Dive 9 - Day - Black Rock
Dive 10 - Day - 1536 - Little Torres -
Arrive Fletcher Island
Dive 11 - Day - 1810 -
Dive 12 - Night - 1910 -

Day 6 - Cruise Day 5
Up 0710
Dive 13 - Day - 0806
Breakfast
Dive 14 - Day - 1153
Lunch
Dive 15 - Day - 1420 - Devil Ray Point
Dive 16 - Day - 1600
Dive 17 - Night - 1910 - Narrow Passage Bay -

Day 7 - Cruise Day 6
Up 0720
Depart 0730
Dive 18 - Day - 0820 - Devil Ray Point - Loads of Stingrays
Breakfast
Dive 19 - Day - 1118 -
Dive 20 - Day - Little Torres
Dive 21 - Night - Mid Sular
Bed 2230

Day 8 - Cruise Day 7
Up 0700
Arrive Black Rock 0800
Gearbox broke
Dive 22 - Day - 0820 - Black Rock - Sharks, Barracuda
Under sail
Breakfast
Under sail
Lunch

Under sail, becalmed
Dinner
Under sail

Day 9 - Cruise Day 8
Under sail
Up 0720
Breakfast
Arrive Rocky Island
Dive 22 - Day - 1120 - Rocky Island - lovely

Under sail
Lunch
Becalmed
Under sail
Sunset
1945 Under sail
Many squid boats

Day 10 - Cruise Day 9
Up 0640

Sunrise off Barwell Island

Arrive Kawthung
Dinner
Run ashore
Passports collected
Burmese Massage
On board
Bed 0130

Day 11 - Cruise Day 10
Up 0700
Packing
Breakfast
Depart Amadeus
Check in Immigration
Ranong
Thai Immigration
0930 Depart Ranong
1100 Arrive resort
1130 depart

1400 arrive Sandy Beach mansion
Check in
SEAL
Lunch at Vic’s Place
Shopping
Snack at Vic’s Place

Day 12
Up 1000
Breakfast at Vic’s Place

Meeting SEAL
Lunch
Shopping
Haircut
Thai Massage 2 hours

Day 13
Up 0900
Breakfast

Check out

Taxi to Phuket Intl airport
Thai Airways to Bangkok
Thai Airways to Hong Kong

Bus home

Conclusion
Great dives
Plenty of large critters - Reef sharks, Nurse Sharks, Mantas, Rays, Barracuda, Trevally, Jacks, Cuttlefish
Less dives than anticipated
Better weather than in the April 2000 cruise
Clearer water / better viz than 2000
Still evidence of explosive fishing
Good fun sailing

Excellent crew
Pleasant company
Good fun

Annex 1 - Diving

Dive 1 - Rocky Island
DT = 28 mins
TDT = 32 mins
Max depth = 27.6m
Viz : 15m+

Large Boat

Sightings : Many dead fish (explosive fishing), clown, whip, Hard and soft corals, fan, Hermit crab, Remora, Puffer, Nudibranch, Lion, Moray, Trevalli, Box, many fish types

Dive 2 - Colona Rocks
DT = 38 mins
TDT = 41 mins
Max depth = 19.9m
Viz : 15m+Large Boat
Sightings : 2 Grey reef sharks, Large Nurse Shark, Chevron Barracuda, Pickhandle Barracuda, Jelly, Moray, Nudibranch, Hard and soft coral, shrimp, Banded shrimp, many fish types

Dive 3 - Colona Rocks
DT = 37 mins
TDT = 39 mins

Max depth = 20m
Viz : 15m+
Large Boat
Sightings : 3 Grey reef shark, Moray, Lion, Box, Cushion star, Jacks, Travelli, Puffer, Shrimp, False stone, Basket star

Dive 4 - Resort Island, resort bay
DT = 41 mins
TDT = 43 mins
Max depth = 9.6m
Viz : Torch
Large Boat
Night
Sightings : Porcupine puffer, Puffer, 2 Spanish Dancer, 3 Blue spotted Ray, Cucumbers, 2 Trigger, Hermit crab

Dive 5 - Colona Rock
DT = 38 mins
TDT = 43 mins
Max depth = 27.4m
Viz : 15m+
Large Boat
Sightings : Cuttle, Lion, Blue spotted ray, Lobster, Nudibranch, 2 Grey Reef Shark, 2 Pipefish, Hard and soft corals, Clown, 1 Nurse shark, Cornet, Sgt Major, many fish types

Dive 6 - Colona Rock
DT = 38 mins
TDT = 41 mins
Max depth = 20m
Viz : 15m+
Large Boat
Sightings : Puffer, 2 Grey Reef Shark, Nurse shark, Hard and soft corals, Moray, shrimp, cleaner shrimp, Triton Trigger, many fish types

Dive 7 - Lone Island, Birdsnest cave west
DT = 50 mins
TDT = 55 mins
Max depth = 19.1m
Viz : 15-20m
Large Boat
Sightings : Puffer, Nudibranch, Cucumber, Hard and soft corals, Clown, Urchins, Jelly, Nudibranch, Porcupine puffer, Crown thorns, Lobster, whip, many fish types

Dive 8 - Black Rock
DT = 34 mins
TDT = 37 mins
Max depth = 36m
Viz : 15m+
Large Boat
Drift
Sightings : Moray, Lobster, Clown, Hard and soft corals, whip, fans

Dive 9 - Black Rock
DT = 32 mins
TDT = 35 mins
Max depth = 28.7m
Viz : 15m+
Large Boat
Sightings : Moray, Lobster, Jacks, Nudibranch, Clown, fans, many fish types

Dive 10 - North East Sular (Little Torres)
DT = 38 mins
TDT = 41 mins
Max depth = 25.2m
Viz : 15-20m
Large Boat
Sightings : Large Turtle, Porcupine Puffer

Dive 11 - Fletcher Island Small Bay
DT = 36 mins
TDT = 38 mins
Max depth = 11.4m
Viz : 5-10m
Large Boat
Sightings : Cuttle, Porcupine Puffer, Whip coral

Dive 12 - Fletcher Island Small Bay
DT = 37 mins
TDT = 39 mins
Max depth = 10.7m
Viz : Torch
Large Boat
Night
Sightings : Huge Red crab, Cuttle, Shrimp, Banded shrimp, Crabs, Porcupine puffer, Cushion star

Dive 13 - Fletcher Island SE Point
DT = 34 mins
TDT = 39 mins
Max depth = 36.1m
Viz : 40m+
Large Boat
Wall
Sightings : Lion, Lobster, Nudibranch, Scorpion, Jelly, Porcupine Puffer, Moray, many fish types

Dive 14 - Sular Khamour / Candy rocks
DT = 22 mins
TDT = 26 mins
Max depth = 25.5m
Viz : 20m+
Large Boat
Drift
Sightings : Lion, Hard and Soft Corals, Fans

Dive 15 - Devils Point Island
DT = 35 mins
TDT = 37 mins
Max depth = 25m
Viz : 15-20m
Large Boat
Sightings : Stingray

Dive 16 - Junk Sail Island
DT = 32 mins
TDT = 37 mins
Max depth = 26m
Viz : 15m+
Large Boat
Sightings : Soft corals, Cuttle, Box, Lion

Dive 17 - Midday Island The Gap south
DT = 44 mins
TDT = 49 mins
Max depth = 12.9m
Viz : Torch
Large Boat
Night
Sightings : Moray, Barracuda, Giant Barracuda, Cone shell, Porcupine Puffer, Starry Puffer, Lion, Sea Pen, Shy Crab, Red Crab, 4 Blue Spotted Rays, Corals

Dive 18 - Devils Point Island
DT = 32 mins
TDT = 36 mins
Max depth = 30.1m
Viz : 20-30m
Large Boat
Sightings : 1 Grey Reef Shark, 2 Devil Rays, 3 Marble Rays, 10 Stingrays, 15 Cobia, 1 Giant Barracuda

Dive 19 - Devils Point
DT = 30 mins
TDT = 33 mins
Max depth = 26.4m
Viz : 20m
Large Boat
Sightings : 2 Stingrays, Starry Puffer, Puffer

Dive 20 - Little Torres
DT = 36 mins
TDT = 40 mins
Max depth = 26.2m
Viz : 20-25m
Large Boat
Sightings : Lion, Travelly, Tuna, Cuttle, Barracuda, Cushion Star

Dive 21 - Mid Sular Nge
DT = 40 mins
TDT = 42 mins
Max depth = 18.6m
Viz : Torch
Large Boat
Sightings : 2 Large Black mantle, white shell Cowrie, Decorator crab, Red Star, Hermit crabs, Hard and soft corals, whip, Crown of Thorns

Dive 22 - Black Rock
DT = 32 mins
TDT = 35 mins
Max depth = 36.8m
Viz : 30m+
Small Boat
Sightings : 1 White tip Shark, 10 Grey Reef Shark, Chevron Barracuda, Cobia, Mackerel, Tuna, Jacks, Puffer, Scorpion

Dive 23 - Rocky Island
DT = 40 mins
TDT = 42 mins
Max depth = 30.3m
Viz : 20m+
Large Boat
Sightings : Lion, Remora, Porcupine Puffer, Clown, Shrimp, Grouper, Box, Barrel Sponge, Hard and soft corals, Fans, Blue Spotted Ray, Crown Thorns, Jelly, Moray, Hermit crab, Cuttle, Barracuda, many fish types

Ginger Ayres
Chief Instructor

Marine Divers(BSAC School 388)

Hong Kong

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